Banana Islands, December 2007

Islands to remember...

In the court yard of Kent Village’s flamboyant beach front bar, Push Garden, JCs, Home base, Returnees, and Tourists relax after the first leg of the VSL 2007 Banana Island Trip. Small talk gradually turned into sustained laughs among the group against the sounds of waves breaking ashore on the Kent Beach. Push Garden’s round, low-thatched hut in the center of this sandy Rastafarian compound provided cover from the midday sun for the young lovers among us. The tourist from Austin standing in the shade of the proverbial sycamore tree remarked on the beauty all around him – the cool faces and breath-taking smiles from the largely female group in front of him, the lush green mountains in the background, and the view of the Atlantic beach front. The conversations were about the sights and sounds of urban, peri-urban, and rural sceneries that the group enjoyed from their air-conditioned mini-buses as we made our trip to Kent from Freetown.

The trip to Banana Island was planned to begin promptly at 8:30am from M&G Enterprises at Congo Cross. Jiwoh single-handedly extended the departure time by an hour. However, when he finally arrived he came with a bag of toffee as a peace offering, which he distributed like rice at a political rally. The group boarded two air-conditioned mini-buses and one Land Rover and made its way to Kent through the mountain villages of Regent, Charlotte, and Bathurst and Grafton. The bumpy ride through the hillside was followed by a smooth ride to Kent on the newly built peninsula road.

The boarding call

Bimbola, tour organizer and founder of VSL, interrupted the “Rastaman” vibes at Kent Beach to announce that the boat was ready for boarding. The first group made its way through the relics of old seawalls and down a rock laden path to a cove where the canopy-top canoe colorfully labeled “Banana Island Guest-House” waited. On the way down, the group was treated to the sight and smell of fresh fish being carried up. The final call to board meant removing your shoes to wade through the knee-high water and climbing into the canoe. Safety first and all passengers were required to don an orange life jacket. Under the expertise of our able crew, the canopied canoe cruised out of the cove and into the deep blue sea with the outline of Banana Islands in the horizon.

While waiting for the canoe to return, the second group hurdled in the round hut and more Sweet Salone small talk ensued. The conversation flowed from experiences with Ghana Airways (perhaps we were all hoping that the canoe trip across to Banana Islands will top the services of Ghana Airways) to tales aptly dubbed ‘Only in Salone.’ Only in Salone can you see a bride mounted on the back of an Okada (motorcycle taxis) leaving the limo trapped in traffic. Only in Salone can the honk from a car be interpreted by a pedestrian as a call to move into the street.

Soon, it was time for the second group to board the canoe. The canoe ride was the experience of a lifetime for many in the group. Almost everyone was apprehensive about being so close to the water – some covered their anxiety with loud jokes while others were silent as the canoe cut through the gentle waves of the Atlantic. During the 20 min canoe ride, the captain at the stern pointed out Cape Shilling Island, Mr. Wolf –the submerged rock face and its victim a Chinese trawler, uninhabited big Allen Island. Banana Islands stood reassuringly ahead at all time and encouraged more moco talk as we approached it shores.

On the approach into Dublin, Banana Islands, the guest house’s round chalets with patios could be scene against the backdrop of rich foliage of trees. We were welcomed ashore by the aroma and sights of barbequing grouper and ‘country fowl’. The familiar sounds from the first group added to the welcome of the disembarking second group. We were all happy to be back together again as one big VSL group.

The Repas

On our arrival, a round of cold drinks was served, including fresh jelly water lightly chilled. Lunch included rice, barbecued chicken, barbecued fish, couscous, garlic sauce, stew, and greens. The highlight of the meal was dessert, which was a salad of coconut jelly, paw-paw, and banana in coconut juice with a touch of lime – served in individual coconut shells. On seeing the dessert presentation, the group bursts into spontaneous chants of “VSL VSL!”

The Walk

After a sumptuous lunch, the group set out on a walk across the island with our tour guide, ‘K Plus.’ We saw old colonial lookouts where cannons hide amongst over-grown grass, the Banana Island Museum founded by the Carleton Carew Foundation, the Slave Grave Pit (where apparently the buried alive slaves who were deemed not strong enough to work in plantations), remains of the St Luke’s Church, Zion Methodist Church, the cemetery, and more. We were heralded with stories about the island and islanders (including the dead who direct the course of their journey to the grade – ask K-plus about this story.)

The Return

Enlightened, exhausted, and expectations exceeded, the group returned to the guest house cove and assembled for the return trip across to Kent. Evening tides had already set in and so the waves were higher than we had experienced earlier in the day. Apart from the sound of the waves rocking against the boat the return was a much quieter trip – whether it was because fellow journeyers were tired from their busy day or just anxious to return to dry land only they can say. In contrast to the scenic journey through the mountain hills our return was through the city of Freetown on a Friday evening. We were welcomed by throngs of people, cars, and “okadas” who, like us, were making their way home after a busy day.

In all, Banana Islands was a great experience. We will definitely go back. Next time perhaps we’ll spend the night at one of the lovely chalets. Thanks VisitSierraLeone.org and Abimbola for showing us another part of our beautiful country. Next stop, Tiwai Islands?

Adrian & Bidemi.

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