Christmas in Bonthe - Written by Arnold Awoonor-Gordon

When I mentioned to people in Freetown,  and even Sierra Leoneans in London that I had been to Bonthe,  the first reaction is ‘You nor dae frade de wata?’    I cannot understand this fear of the sea from a people who were mostly born within the sound of the waves of the sea.  There must be a physiological reason for this.  Although Bonthe can be reached by a long and not too comfortable road,  yet the easiest way is by boat,  and we choose a speed boat.  Anyway the boat ride from the Freetown Aqua Sports Club was smooth,  and we were able to pick out various beaches on the peninsular as we speed along, passing Kent,  the southern  most tip of the Peninsular,  Banana Island,  Plaintain Island and Shenge.   The approach to Bonthe was rather spectacular with the low laying mangrove swamp forming a spectacular foreground  to the low laying chalets  of the Bonthe Holliday Village which came into sight as we approached the small jetty.

The sight of an old PZ warehouse on the seafront reminded us of the long and profitable economic place that Bonthe,  which is situated on Sherbro Island, has in the development of Sierra Leone.  This was at a time when the produce of the interior of the country such as piassava (for those who don’t know what piassava is used for,  it is in the making of brushes and bristles, and at one time Bonthe exported two thirds of the worlds piassava) palm oil,  palm kernel,  ginger and above all, rice,  passed through Bonthe on to the worlds markets.  Large ships from around the world came to Bonthe to carry these produces to a  world hungry for these produces, and one can imagine the hustle and bustle as this  island,  the same size as Jamaica, became the centre of the export trade of Sierra Leone.  The coming of the railways and building of roads into the hinterland of the country killed Bonthe as an economic and vibrant export heart of the country.  The piassava trade was also devastated when the world discovered that plastic made cheaper brushes.   Today all this is left are the old warehouses of such illustrious trading companies as SCOA,  CFAO, PZ and several other companies whose names are no more recognised today by younger Sierra Leoneans.

As we approached the group of chalets that make up the Bonthe Holiday Village,  one immediately saw the hands of Joy Samake,  owner of Balmaya restaurant at Congo Cross, one of the partners in the project,  stamped all over the place.  The other partners in the project is the  eminent Sierra Leonean and Bonthe resident,  Dr Peter Tucker,  who had the first holiday camp on the site and indeed owns the land he has leased to the partnership.  The third partner is Englishman Martyn Marriott, who has had a long association with Sierra Leone in the diamond business,  and has had a credible desire to invest and give something back to the country.    The layout,  the manicured lawn, shell gravel path and the design of the chalets shows the care and devotion that she has put into making the place the island of haven it has become.  Her hands can also be seen in the layout, design and construction of the chalets, and what is more important, the high quality of the materials used and the high quality of the fittings and furnishings.  The bedrooms and bathrooms are of a standard comparable ( and in some cases,  better)  to anything found in the so called five star hotels in Freetown.  And what is more,  everything worked...the toilets flushed,  hot and cold water came at the turn of taps,  good quality bath towels (changed daily)  and the floors were cleaned each day.  I understand that  most  of the material used in the construction of the chalets and  public buildings were imported from Italy.  Now one could see, understand and admire the hard work put in by Joy in transporting everything by road from Freetown to the  Mattru or Yargoi,  the nearest point to Bonthe.  From there everything (including tomatoes) has to be put on boats and ferried across to the Bonthe.  One must admire the drive and tenacity of Joy for making it all possible despite having to do the weekly drive from Freetown  on unpaved and potholed roads, taking building materials and supplies for the building of what I can only describe as world class complex of chalets.

The attraction  of the Bonthe Holiday Village is the game-fishing which attracts sports anglers  from around the world.  When the largest tarpon was caught off the waters of Bonthe in the early 1990s,  it made headlines in international sports-angling circles,  and game-fishing mad men from around the world wanted to visit Bonthe to see whether they could beat the record.  Since then  12 world records in various line classes,  and weighing between  166kg and 283kg,  have been caught in the area. A days fishing trip from the village is a must  and can be arranged, if you are so inclined.  But not being so inclined,  I spent most of the time laying by the pool and cooling off either by jumping into the pool or sipping gin and tonic complete with lime and lots of ice. But there are other type of fish to be caught in the area such barracuda, yellow jack, grouper and giant mackerel.

One other speciality of the Bonthe Holiday Village is the food.  Prepared in the open plan kitchen,  another trade mark of Joy,  it is up to international standards and prepared by a chef from  Benin,  the  former French African country,  and who learned his culinary skills in some of the best hotels along the West African coast.  Breakfast of bacon and eggs and tomatoes,  lots of toasted baguettes and masses of local coffee.  Lunch consists of fish caught locally and from the sea to the table in a few hours,  which tasted  like fish never tasted before.  As we spent Christmas at the village,  we were treated to turkey with all the trimmings, followed by Christmas pudding, something to remind us of home in the UK were most of the guests came from.

Visiting the Bonthe Holiday Village is a must for anyone visiting Sierra Leone and especially Sierra Leoneans who, putting away their fears of ‘wata’ would find it an unsual experience visiting an upmarket holiday concept  partly owned, designed and managed by a Sierra Leonean.

To book your stay at the Bonthe Holiday Village you can contact Visit Sierra Leone or click here to book

Lungi: Not just for airports anymore, by Ryann Manning

In three years, I’ve probably passed through Lungi 18 times. On 17 occasions, I ventured no further than the airport, helipad, hovercraft launch, or ferry terminal. Once, I spent six hours in the Lungi Airport Hotel before my 5 a.m. Royal Air Maroc flight. Never did I consider exploring beyond that.

But now I know: Lungi has treasures of its own.

Just 45 minutes from the airport, and a lifetime removed from the bustle of town, lies the idyllic getaway of Sierra Paradise. On a recent visit, we followed the owner, Sammy, down a dirt road through dense tropical forest until we emerged suddenly in an impossibly bright clearing, the sun brilliant off the white sand. Spread across the clearing, dotted amongst a handful of palm trees, were five candy-colored bungalows. And beyond, the parallel lines of beach, water, and sky.

The bungalows alone were welcoming enough – constructed in a traditional style, with round walls and neatly-thatched roofs, but like no village homes I’ve ever seen. Each was painted in an almost impossibly cheery color – one peppermint red, another buttercup yellow, a third the color of the mid-day sky – and the thatch roofs were topped by abstract sculptures. Within each bungalow were two immaculate mirror-image suites, both with a spacious bedroom and modern en suite bathroom.

Sammy led us to the sky-blue bungalow. Inside, his attention to detail and love of his native Sierra Leone were both on display. The curtains fluttering in two open windows were gara-died blue in shades of ocean and sky, as were the sheets and bedspread on the enormous bed and the cushions on the  wicker chairs nearby. Carefully-selected works by local artisans livened the room and its adjoining bathroom, and woven lightshades softened the fixtures hanging overhead. Even the curtain rods were noticeably beautiful – lengths of reed, natural and warmly polished – and on the bathroom sink lay both traditional African hair combs and squares of lavender-scented French soap.

The sink accoutrements were just one hint of Sammy’s own background. Born and raised in Freetown, he has lived the last 15 years in France and now divides his time between the two countries.He returned to Sierra Leone to create this boutique resort, with an emphasis on cultural tourism and the amenities to please an international crowd. “I’ve spent time overseas,” he said. “I know what they want.”  And yet he also aims to expose visitors to what Sierra Leone has to offer. Thus, Sierra Paradise serves traditional dishes like groundnut stew and cassava leaf, but made with vegetable oil instead of palm oil (to appeal to foreign palates) and with fresh shrimp, fish, and tender beef. To accompany dinner, Sammy offers French wines and real-brewed coffee, but also freshly-tapped palm wine. “From God to man,” he said.

Food and drinks are served in an open barrie-style dining area, with a half-moon bar at one end decorated by a colorful mural and ringed by tall stools. From the bar, we could peer through the palm trees to the beach beyond. A short walk brought us through the long beach-side grass – I’d call it dune grass if I were in New England – to a narrow strip of sand. To either side, we could see nothing but the narrow palm-lined white sand beach stretching for miles. Ahead of us was a vast mud flat, rippling like water and shimmering in the sunset, stretching almost to the horizon. Scattered across the mud were a handful of fishing boats, abandoned by design or by chance to await the rising tide.

I wandered out across the mudflat, collecting seashells and peering in tide pools, until the setting sun drove me back toward the sand. At one point a family passed by on a motorbike – a mother, father, and three children – following the line of palm trees to return to their village. The soft hum of their bike was the only disruption to the utter peace and quiet. I couldn’t remember when I’d last been so relaxed.

Later, listening to music and drinking palm wine, Sammy told us about his plans for the resort. Tours of the neighboring villages. Performances of traditional music and dance. A chance to fish with local fishermen. I suggested he include a visit to the nearby palm-wine bar, down the road from the resort. When we’d stopped there earlier that day to pick up refreshments for the evening, following Sammy down a narrow footpath through the thick bush to a tiny shaded clearing, we found a dozen men and women drinking palm wine from used plastic water bottles. Though the conversation slowed when we arrived, I was sure it would have picked up again once we settled in, and I vowed to return.

All-in-all, Sammy has put together a beautiful retreat from the bustle of city life. As we strolled through the clearing the next morning, surprising two acrobatic monkeys playing in the trees by the kitchen, I imagined the resort filled with an array of guests. In the daytime, with the miles of shell-strewn beach and frolicking monkeys, it would be perfect for families. In the evening, when the setting sun shimmers across the mudflats and the soft hum of the tropical forest begins its nightly chorus, it would be a romantic paradise for honeymooners or courting couples. At night, when the stars sparkle in a sky unmarred by urban light pollution, and Sammy plays African and European dance tracks while dishing up large mugs of palm wine, it will offer a playground for young adventurers.

Regardless, it is well worth a visit.

*Prices from $115, all meals included. To book contact Visit Sierra Leone (info@visitsierraleone.org )

Two Visit Sierra Leone Tour Guides graduate from first tour guide training programme

As Sierra Leone struggles to get the tourism industry back on track a tour guide training programme is seen as a key component of the strategic planning process.  Funded by the Integrated Fund, the training was a three month course comprising of 70% practical (field trips etc) and 30% theoretical in eight key modules (tourism philosophy, travel Geography, wild life and forestry, history, communication skills, Human relations, culture and first aid) supported by an examination at the end of the course.

Visit Sierra Leone is proud to have submitted two of our guides to the course and would like to congratulate Alieya Kargbo and Abdulai Sankoh on their successful completion.

Alieya Kargbo was selected to give the vote of thanks on behalf of all the guides at the end of the Graduation Ceremony and did so in a manner befitting the honour.

Thirty three (33) students successfully completed the course and were awarded with certificate in a low key graduation ceremony graced by the Minister of Tourism and Culture by Hindolo Trye, General Manager of the National Tourist Board, Mr Cecil Williams and a representative from the IF (funding agency), Mr Peter Donelan. Licenses are due to by collected early this year. Training for another group of thirty (30) students will commence in February to complete the project.