Sierra Leone blog for Travel Articles, feedback from trips and general musings about Sierra Leone
17 November 2009
SwitSalone presents the Official Launch Bumbuna Phase 1 (50 Megawatts)
My father and I woke up at 4am to make the five hour journey to be a part of the Official Launching of the Bumbuna HydroDam Phase1. While I wanted to attend Bumbuna simply for the purposes of making this post and fulfill my obligations as a socially concerned citizen, my father a staunch life long supporter of the APC was attending to perform praise and worship of his party’s accomplishments. We stopped at Wusum Hotel for a quick breakfast before finally making our way to the dusty road to Bumbuna.
I cuddled my pillow as we drove the flat red dusty road towards the Dam. The first marker that we were getting close was a turn into a small village that was littered with uniformed school children of different ages waving and singing awaiting the president’s arrival. I waved to them thinking—how mobutu sesekoesque. Then the hills began to emerge from the earth and we were surrounded by lush green rolling hills in every direction. It was beautiful and peaceful and it renewed my faith in our environment, that all wasn’t lost and that there was still so much of God’s grace and bounty of nature untouched. I had seen a documentary film about the construction of a dam in India and the amount of environmental damage, lives lost, and communities displaced because of the dam and so those thoughts were in the back of my head. Fortunately, there was no indication of that and it all looked dam good
Marker II that we were close….was a check point manned by armed military personnel asking to see our invitation. We provided a piece of paper on GOSL letter head with our names on it that really could have been typed and signed by anyone with the ability to google the GOSL coat of arms and use MS word. We passed on to the check point number2 where we were welcomed by a group of red and white clad APC supporters who were going to make a lot of money on the dance and sing hustle in front of the checkpoint. Finally we made our way to the parking area. I was really really excited to be there. I am convinced that I was probably, if not the youngest young person present.
I let the camera strap weigh on my neck eager to snap my first couple shots. I didn’t have to go far when I saw three men wearing white booboo gowns with red letters etched unto them glorifying Earnest Bai and his party. One of them was carrying a stuffed lion on his head. I asked him why he was carrying it and he said the lion was Earnest Bai. I smiled and snapped. As we made the left turn unto the paved path I saw Palo (minister of Defence) flanked by his soldiers, he had a permanent smile on his face. We said our hellos and I continued on my journey to Uncle Bumbuna.
Green, White, and Blue tents had been set up for guests, dignitaries, and the rest of mankind. The Program was to start at 11:00am and as eager beavers we were there by 9:00am when most of the seats were still unfilled. Slowly, the guests began to arrive and I spotted the usual suspects...the members of cabinet, and other party people, foreign dignitaries the likes of the Nigerian High Commission, reps from DFID, ADB, and ofcourse Salini officials (the Italian Company responsible for bringing Bumbuna to its 1st Phase-50Megawatts of completion).
I went around snapping photographs, wandering about and taking in the sights. This hydrodam project started some 30 years ago. The kind of government project that people joked about, an urban legend much like the bridge to lungi. Many people had lost faith in the project and some even wondered if it indeed existed. Since I been back I always felt that the government whether APC or SLPP should have spent considerable energy updating people on the status of Bumbuna so that we wouldn’t hear the news as gossip from the opposition party or even worse the local press. But I guess that would have called for transparency and actually including the masses as stakeholders.
I think there is a general maybe cultural perception that when things go off track that the best approach is to hush hush. Say for example you’ve assigned someone a task and for whatever reason it has gone off plan, instead of them bringing it to your attention to forewarn u so that u know ahead of time. They wont say anything until u ask “have u finished your assignment?” and u get something like this “well I wanted to do it but when I went there the door was locked and the guy who had the key had left, I wanted to wait for him but then I came here to tell u but when I came u were on the phone so I didn’t want to disturb you, I know that was three weeks ago but then I forgot to go back there. Make ah go day now?”
Basically its that people are afraid to tell the truth if it isn’t all good while on the contrary they should keep us properly informed so that there are no surprises. I’m sure the masses would be loads more understanding and even more patient with the powers that be if they let us know what was going on.
When the program of events finally started it was your usual speech speech speech…this donor and that donor, praise and worship. Amen.
A lady on the board of directors of NPA had everyone grumbling as she went on to explain every little bit that detail that had been accomplished by NPA since the president took over. According to her speech the government has increased power output by over 1000% since coming to office and now with the completion of Bumbuna Phase 1 (and yet still insufficient for out power needs). It was a good speech but the sun made it unbearable and we were eager for her to finish. By this time the battery on my camera had given way and I sat on the concrete slab behind the media and let the sun suck all the fluids out of my body. I was so hot I could have easily started sobbing but my tear ducts had evaporated. Finally IB Kargbo announces a short break before the president’s speech. Thank God!! I walk over to uncle Soulay and I got a bottle of water and made small talk here and there.
Before the break IB had announced that a short comedic and musical performance was to follow. The first group to perform was Jungle Leaders, a personal favorite and they sang a pro-government song in response to Emerson’s Yesterday Betteh pass tiday…the gist of the song was simple…its to early for Emerson to say yesterday betteh pass tiday ( they called him an SLPP supporter) and that the critiques should give the govt time and space to perform its duties. The next performance was from a kid called Innocent who I later found out had been paid by APC to write a response song to Emerson, they had even given him an SUV to drive. As he walked up he was treated like a golden boy and while he performed his song Gi Dem Chance all the ministers and APC big wigs walked up one after the other to throw money on him. His musical talent was nothing to write about but his album was up for sale and supporters scrambled to buy the cd. If only other artists had this kind of govt support to promote their work.
After all the enjoyment, the crowd was called to order and everyone returned to their place. The president began and all protocols observed etc. the theme of his speech “we shall not tire, we noh go taya”….a call and response that after the second time the crowd answered We noh go taya. I’m sure his speech writers were smiling to themselves like “that was a good one”
EBK spoke…..blah blah blah APC….blah blah thank u to our donors….blah blah blah APC….blah blah blah…development…blah blah blah APC…blah blah blah we shall not tire….we noh go taya
At the end of his speech and applause the high table consisting of EBK (EBK wife was absent tho his mom and whataman were present tho not under the high table), IB, VP, and VP wife, the ministers, and people under the tents stand up join hands and break out into the APC Party song, arms swinging and jubilating. I made a point to mark out who weren’t singing the party song just in case we turn all Bolshevik and need to wipe out the traitors. Comrade follow me.
3 November 2009
The Returnee Files – Q&A with Sheka Forna
I often say some people just have Sierra Leone running through their veins. They are drawn to Sierra Leone whether they like it or not. Here is a man who’s family strikes me as such. His dad, was the popular politician Mohamed Sorie Forna who dared to warn against some of the excesses of the Siaka Stevens regime, and for that he paid the ultimate price in 1975 when along with fourteen others he was executed. His sister Aminatta Forna delivered the highly acclaimed “The devil that danced on water” and during this Q&A he talked about his grown up daughter who visited Sierra Leone two years ago for a ‘long holiday’ and is still enjoying it – even though she had only visited Sierra Leone once before, aged 10! Even his baby son, is coming home.. even though he has no choice in the matter I’m sure he’ll love it. Here’s is a family with whom Sierra Leone is intrinsically linked.
Here is a man who takes the old myth that Sierra Leoneans are not entrepreneurial and blows it wide open. The first time I met Sheka, we were both in the UK. At the time, he was running Regal Exchange, a firm he set up with his partner to provide business training and support services to clients in emerging markets. This, after being in sales and marketing for over 20 years with Carlton and ITV in the UK and Sierra Leone Airlines in Sierra Leone.
Our paths crossed many times after that and on one of those occasions while on a flight back from London in 2008, he told me he was relocating and also about his new business venture a Mobile Money Transfer Service, SPLASH. Such a cool name. With SPLASH launching a few weeks ago I thought he’d make a great subject for the Returnee Files….
When did you move back to Sierra Leone? How long where you out of the country? You here permanently?
SF: I Left in 1987 and move back permanently in January 2009.
Why did you decide to relocate to Sierra Leone?
SF: Since leaving I’ve had a long-term desire to return. My departure was intended to be temporary, but was prolonged by the deteriorating security & economic situations.
In 2004 I set up a company (www.regalexchange.com) focusing on providing continuing education for African professionals. This increased my interaction with Africa and heightened my desire to return to Sierra Leone. The clincher was reading in ‘The Economist’ an article about mobile payments in East Africa - an idea I thought would be deployable in Sierra Leone, and which I set out to achieve.
Did family and friends try to discourage you from returning home? If yes, can you share some of their concerns?
SF: My family, including ironically my Danish wife, were very supportive of my move. My stepmother, who is based in Freetown, had for some time been coaxing me to return. English friends were less enthusiastic. Many still had negative images of the civil war etched in their minds, imagining that I was returning to the country portrayed in the film ‘Blood Diamond’.
How and what steps did you take to prepare your move/relocation to Sierra Leone?
SF: I’d been visiting SL on a regular basis – once every 3 years or so. In the year before my return I visited 8 times, ensuring that the economic & political climate was ripe for my business idea, & that I had put the essentials in place for my & my wife’s arrival.
What is your profession? Have you been able to get the most out of your educational qualifications achieved abroad?
SF: I obtained a BA in Business Studies in the UK. I find that the business environment in Sierra Leone is somewhat different from that imagined in the rarified atmosphere of European academia. However prior to forming Regal Exchange my work experience in the UK was in marketing. This has proved useful in establishing my business.
If you own/run a business/organization, did you move to establish your business? How did you go about setting up the business and how did you find the experience?
SF: I did move to establish my own business. Before returning full time I visited on at least 8 occasions, establishing the relationships & obtaining the approvals I needed to proceed. Although intensely bureaucratic & time consuming compared to the UK, I found the process relatively straightforward. The biggest hurdle was a general lack of understanding of mobile payments on the part of regulatory authorities, which resulted in a need for much repeated explanation & many briefing sessions. As one senior regulator noted, the powers that be in Sierra Leone observe developments elsewhere, never for one moment imagining that they will one day come to Sierra Leone.
What type of business do you have? How can folks get in contact?
SF: I run Splash Mobile Money limited, a mobile payments system allowing customers to transfer money between mobile phone users by means of SMS messages.
Our website may be found at www.splash-cash.com. My e-mail address is sheka@splash-cash.com
What culture changes did you experience after your move? What surprised you the most about life here?
SF: Nobody seems to be in a hurry. Everything takes a long time. Everybody needs to be reminded, coaxed & cajoled. Everything needs to be checked & double-checked.
I wasn’t too surprised by too much on my return, with the exception of the Sierra Leonean ability to party. Even on ‘school nights’ you are likely to encounter supposedly gainfully employed individuals out on the town until the small hours.
Have you adjusted to the Sierra Leonean lifestyle or are you still living like you did abroad?
SF: I have a Danish wife, so will always have one foot in foreign climes. However I think that we have adjusted pretty well to a Sierra Leone lifestyle – of cold showers, of a lack of privacy, of the kongosa & lie lie
How have you handled the infrastructure limitations, including electricity, water, sanitation, etc.?
SF: On the domestic front I’m lucky enough to have I a flat within my cousin’s house, where all these things are taken care of.
Out of home you have to take things in your stride. If these things bother you, then Sierra Leone is not the country for you.
What’s the best thing about returning home?
SF: The food
The worst thing about returning?
SF: The roads
Do you think living abroad--education, work experience, culture-- have enabled you to contribute to the development of Sierra Leone
SF: I hope so. In an ironic way I believe that that the war may yet prove to have been a watershed for Sierra Leone. Many people left for pro-longed periods allowing them to become truly exposed to functioning economies, democratic systems of government, a free press, well run companies, corporate social responsibility, the individual’s responsibility to the state, accountable government, human rights etc. etc. These are values that we are returning with & which I hope will prove to be positive influences for the country as a whole.
What challenges do you face in Sierra Leone? For example: at work, with friends and families, lifestyle?
SF: Nobody seems to be in a hurry. Everything takes a long time. Everybody needs to be reminded, coaxed & cajoled. Everything needs to be checked & double-checked.
In regards to family the last decade has fostered a culture of dependency, with those perceived to be better off expected to subsidise any & all who are worse of than them. No account appears to be taken of ones’s own circumstances.
Society is small & cultural activities limited. One has to be prepared to meet the same people when out & about & to hear the same anecdotes many times over.
If you are in Salone with your family, why did you decide to bring your children? How have your children adjusted to the new lifestyle and culture?
SF: My, grown up daughter, came to visit Sierra Leone two years ago, ostensibly for a long holiday, having only visited once before – when she was ten. She is still here & loving it. My wife has recently given birth to a son. We intend that she will return with him shortly. I do not imagine he will have much to say on the matter.
Will you return to the country where you relocated from?
SF: I don’t imagine so. I will visit, but intend to make Sierra Leone my base.
What is your long-term vision or hope for Sierra Leone?
SF: That we will develop a broad based middle class, who will be able to contribute positively to Sierra Leone’s development. They exist, they’re just not here.
If you were asked to encourage others to return home, what would you do/advice? Any regrets?
SF: Do as did Caesar. Come & look if you want to conquer.
No regrets.
Time to bring back Jimmy B?
I remember a few years ago, there was hardly a week that went by without one album launch or the other. Now, for one reason or the other Sierra Leone music seems to be fading again. No doubt the musicians face a lot of challenges, piracy being one of them. Producing music of great quality that can compete is required, undoubtedly. Nigerian music has taken over the dance floors here and for good reason too, the stuff coming out is great!
A few years ago Jimmy B was credited for the renaissance of Sierra Leone music, I believe he was called the Godfather of Sierra Leone music or something of the sort. Unfortunately, there was some sort of a falling out with the other artists. I’ve just been listening to the radio play a couple of songs off his album “Sweet December” album. I’m no music professional but the quality of his sound far surpasses that of other Sierra Leonean musicians. Maybe it’s time to get Jimmy B involved once again in the development of Sierra Leonean artists. The talent is still there, but unfortunately there is no focus. I believe we need to create a new form of music that is uniquely Sierra Leonean and that will be the key to the International success we enjoyed during the days of ‘Palm Wine’ music. I feel the Nigerians have been able to do so successfully in the past couple of years or so. There are various peeps trying to do their thing but based on his past record and experience, something tells me Jimmy B may just be the man to take Sierra Leonean artists to that other level.