A year later – By Yeniva Sisay

There was a smile planted on my face when I woke up this morning. I woke up with a sense of pride and accomplishment, joy and astonishment. I took in a deep breath of faith, struggle, determination and courage and swallowed wonder, chance, bliss, and uncertainty.

Breakfast was served on the veranda of my brand new apartment that overlooks the hills and vast terrain of Freetown. A view that reminds you what the Portuguese saw when they named Mama Salone “ Serra Leoa” -Lion Mountain. I looked over the table into the eyes of my husband- to- be and thought: how full my life is. Can it get any better than this? I am truly blessed. Last year, I came to Sierra Leone with my hands in the air, feet on a cloud, and now I am standing tall, firmly planted “on the ground.”

The questions never end. What is it like? What do you think of living in Africa? How is Sierra Leone progressing!!!!? If I were to even begin to explore all of the questions fully, I would be publishing a book. What I can do is say a few things (I know for sure). Being in Sierra Leone has its highs and lows, ups and downs, disappointments and triumphs, just like any other place on God’s green earth. I am here for a reason. I am in constant conversations with people about the lack of resources and the attitudes of some of our people, but I refuse to let any of these things bring me down.

Sierra Leone is still in the early stages of national development and we have a ways to go. Great strides have been made for example, the supply of electricity, although inconsistent, is much better. Gasoline has gone down from Le 16,500 Leones to Le 14,000. Efforts toward developing electricity through hydro- power (Bumbuna) are well underway. Through the efforts of Freetown City Council, the streets are the cleanest I have ever seen. I can truly say that people make a conscious effort not to throw trash on the streets. It could be the inferred fine of Le 150,000, but it has established some order which is great to see. The emergence of banks from all across Africa is also giving Freetown a much needed face lift. The collective effort towards CHANGE is on course and felt throughout the community.

Sierra Leone offers you chances to see life through different lenses: as community member, contributor, victim, employer, employee, woman, young person, educated person, and the list goes on. You are forced to open your eyes and see what’s going on because life is happening all around you, all of the time. One is not inundated with the constant monotony of the West: work, TV, designer bags, bills, and alarm clocks. Here your life is intimately intertwined with others so much so that you matter and you are not just a number.

As I look back and reflect on a year, it’s hard to believe how time has power over one’s life. I have lived and learned. I have fallen but I am still standing, and, most of all, I have had a dream come true.

Having a dream come true is like having a piece of the clouds in your pocket. You are ecstatic because you have been reaching and stretching to get it at all costs and so the accomplishment is liberation in itself. I am holding a piece of the clouds in the palm of my hand. Anytime things get rough or I am unsure of my path or my choices, I have a year of Sierra Leone to look back on, and I witness a dream in action.

The opening of The EXCEL Education Program has allowed me to breathe deeply. It makes me want to scream off the rooftops, “I DID IT” and so I will: (my flag flying in the air). I am celebrating my life and the fact that possibility is everything. This time last year, EXCEL was just a concept and now it is an established institution.

On Monday July 21, 2008, 18 students arrived for the EXCEL Summer Institute. The Summer Institute was created to introduce students to the EXCEL Education Center and its programs. It was about enrichment in a variety of areas such as reading, writing, critical thinking and leadership development.

The first day, I had no idea what to feel. I was excited and unsure of how far to take them. Before all of this EXCEL was just on paper. It was all of my ideas taken from my journals, notebooks, yellow sticky notes and crumpled up pieces of paper formed into a plan. Now EXCEL is coming to life.

So I just dove in, and the students and staff ate it up. The first day we created the norms for the center and began with the first word of the week which was EMPOWERMENT.

Students came from all backgrounds, some from middle class families, some from single family homes, and some from very impoverished backgrounds. The tie that binds them all is their brilliance. When you have students who really want to learn, students who have something to say but have never been given the opportunity, students who understand how knowledge can give you a better life, each class is AMAZING! We explored current events, Nelson Mandela’s inauguration speech, Socratic seminars, Cornell Notes, politics and Hip- Hop (you should hear their philosophy on Tupac). Obama vs. Mc Cain. (we are ELATED at the outcome.) Most of all, we explored learning in a way these students never thought possible.

One of the highlight of the summer for students was our “Guest Speakers Series”. This is something I had always wanted to do, to expose students to a range of Sierra Leonean professionals. When you ask our youth “what do you want to be when you grow up?” you get the choral response: doctor, lawyer, and accountant. Not that these are bad professions, it is what they are used to seeing or hearing about. It is just that there are so many others occupations out there. Guests were invited to talk to students abut their education, experiences and their motivation. We had guests from a range of fields like marketing, entertainment, engineering, journalism, fashion, and medicine. Thank you Dr. Sophie –Cole-Foster , Gaivia Lavaly, Abubakkar Jalloh, Adama Kai Kargbo, Aminatta Dumbuya and Shadrock and Ragga Spice for gracing our presence. Students were inspired beyond belief!! We also can not forget the great contribution of Mr. Adrian Labor who spent time helping implement the Digital Village Project. Now this is what I call GIVING BACK!

It feels great to be Ms. Sisay again. In the interim, while building the dream, I got to experience life in a different way. I have been the MC at several events, produced a monthly poetry show called “Play on Words”, worked as a consultant for the International Rescue Committee, and now have my life has expanded to include the roles of wife, mother and Aschobi Designs. For someone who came to Sierra Leone with only EXCEL in the mind, my plate is full. But I love it. I have a great life. I am truly blessed, and it feels amazing to be in command of my own destiny.

The students are amazing. Each one of my classroom combinations has always been an interesting blend of brilliance.

EXCEL is more than just a dream come true: it is setting a standard for excellence in Africa. We are preparing the next leaders of Africa in Sierra Leone. I moved back home because I believe in the potential of Sweet Salone. I have seen so much while being here.

Each day I walk into the center I think to myself, this is where dreams happen. I thank God for the formation of creative expression and writing-- it has been my cradle in this journey. Things have been happening and so blogging has been neglected. You don’t know how bad I have wanted to write, however; I needed something to say and the time to write it.

I know there are a series of breakthroughs around the corner for The EXCEL Education Program. We still have not received full funding but we are very thankful for donations that have kept us pushing forward. I feel much more confident now that we have proven results and we are not just another briefcase organization.

Please stay tuned as the journey continues. www.excelscholars.org

SwitSalone Presents THE 2008 SwitList (a.k.a Travelers Social Guide for Just Comes (JCs), Been Comin (BCs), One time Visitors, and Returnees)

SwitSalone Presents THE 2008 SWITLIST

(psssstttt i'm not dead...been hybernatin from the global)

I know that there are loads of you who will be coming soon to crowd my town, and my streets, and fill my country with your "innits" and "whatsups". Last year i let you take over and i stayed home...this year fat chance....ITS MY TOWN. I understand you may not know better and therefore need advice from the only source that matters on what to expect and how to make sure that your plane ticket is worth every penny. So here is the lowdown, the juice, the word on the street, strictly not from concentrate but through my grapevine.

BEACHES

Number 2: is clearly the #1 beach to visit this year but please bring your own food. Cause the food at the restaurant sucks. Best thing to do is buy your FISH from lumbley beach and take it with u raw and have them grill it in their kitchen....better yet...season it and take it with you. And dont forget to ask for the guy who gives massages...he's old with tooth missing but his hands are strong

Bureh Beach: Nature's best and i still my favorite because its virgin and as ecotourism as u could ever get. You'll have to bring everything, including water with you but its worth the experience of having your own private beach

Sussex (Francos): Tired of Freetown and wanna spend the night on the beach but dont want to give up the luxury of hot water?? Franco's is a romantic couples friendly spot. And if u need to hide out and do the dirty dirty (which might mean just layin on the beach.....wink wink) then this is it. You dont have to take anything but your good attitude

Lumbley Beach: For no other reason than the fact that its soo bloody close and u dont need and SUV to get there. Since they broke down the beach bars on the sand side i think its gotten a bit better. You probably dont want to get in the water cause its filthy but walk or run on the beach, lay in the sun, and watch people...

MONEY

Exchange Rate: seems to have settled back on Le3000-$. You Euro and Pound people sorry cant help u but know that its much higher than that. Also, dont bring 20s or 10s or lower denomination of any currency cause they will change it at a lower rate (it makes no sense to u but thats what they do) Also, Some places dont take $100 bills from 1996 or older than 2003...i dont know why but thats how it is

More money: Bring more money than u think you need, do not underestimate Freetown high prices....and if u sound schwen schwen u better beleive u will end up paying more even if u think u know better...Somebodi go pass am pan u

If you run out of money: You can send yourself money via western union online and pick it up via any of the banks that are affiliated. Also if u have a debit visa card....u can take to to Rokel Commercial bank and they will give you cash. I havent tried it but it does work. Only, if u dont have the right connections at the bank...na for ready for tinap na line for a long long long time

Open a Local Account: It might be late by the time u get here to do this but u should consider opening a local account with one of the banks here and u can wire money to your account all year round so that u always have enough waiting for you when u get here

ATM CARDS: Please dont expect for your credit card or debit card to work here. We're still on paper. Rokel Bank has a point of sale (POS) at different super markets but u need to have an account with them first to use the service. ECOBANK has a functioning ATM at Lumbley Safecon petrol station....and another at Family Kingdom (which is always never working). I hear that UBA, AccessBank and Zenith Bank may have ATMs operational by christmas as well. UBA and AccessBAnk will have ATMs at PAddys but once again u have to have accounts with them to benefit from this.

and If all else fails.....u can sell some of your property to get some cash.........:-)

WATER
Grafton: Like Tutic a lot people us the brand Grafton for the product. Only problem is that means that sometimes u want the brand Grafton they bring u some saudi, or lebanese bottled water (peeuuuwwww). For my taste, Grafton is the best tasting (meaning no taste) and closest to capturing the memory of tap water that i relished as a kid before i learnt about typhoid and all the reasons why i cant drink it now (though i'm sure i have)….owned by a Sierra Leonean

Magram: Owned i think by a Lebanese (so alot of lebanese owned biznesses will carry it instead of grafton) is my water of preference if there is no Grafton

Luvian: owned my Sherkanders and sons is also salone water (its the one with a woman on the label)

Blue Spring: not sure who owns it buts also Salone water

I have made it a habit to not drink any imported water whether it be from london, lebanon or france (i only make an exception for BADIOS, my favorite water ever.....its mineral water from France)

DRINKS

CAN vs. BOTTLE: I know we're all used to getting drinks in cans but please remember that we have no waste recycling for cans...though it can be melted to make pots. Some places dont sell bottle drinks so u may not have a choice but when u buy the bottle u support the FREETOWN COLD STORAGE & SL BREWERY who employ locally and support local communities. Canned soft drinks are usually imports from Lebanon....nothing wrong with that but....gotta drink responsibly....i.e for the environment. So ask for the bottle first and the can after. Or even better ask the restaurant what they do with their empty cans…

FOOD: Where to eat???!!!

1. Mamba Point: Yes, there may not be any ambiance (and if u're from america u might notice all the white people but they're very friendly so dont be afraid....just think OBAMA :-))) This is the only restaurant that never disappoints me on taste or presentation. Mamba Point consistently delivers on good quality food. Besides the lobster i make at my house...its the best i've had so far. Also they have everything from chinese, to pizza, indian food, to japanese. Yes SUSHI!!!! They have a newly opened sushi bar thats pretty good and they freakin have tempura so what else could u ask for?? (Good for Lunch but Best for Dinner)

2. Crown Bakery: Forget the chicken at Crown, sharwama....or any of the other tidbits they have for fastfood takeaway. When you're at Crown there are two things you order for....Jollof Rice& Stew (its the best i've had at a restaurant...so f**k*** delicious.) or u order the SPECIAL....nothing beats the Crown Special. Whatever it is i guarantee that it will be worth every cent and u probably wont even be able to finish it cause the portions are so big. They have this King Prawns they do and oh my GOD...that shit is seafood heaven no lie. Also this is the place u go if you wanna see VIPs: banks MDs, CEOs, and Ministers on a regular day....oh and if u're lucky u might see me too :-) (Best for Lunch)

3. Chinatown Chinese Restaurant (not the one downstairs they have one in the back upstairs to serve the guest house): This is the closest i've come to having what i would consider chinese food. They have good sweet and sour tofu and the rice in bamboo shoot with beef is delicious. Also, no one really goes there so u can have privacy and eat in peace. But its good for weekend eating for family. Also they have good shumai....hmmm hmmm my favorite)

4. Diaspora Bookshop Cafe: Best place to eat on a budget and for a snack if you dont mind possibly sharing seating space on the sofa with people you dont know. Worst place to go if you want privacy cause its small. But if u're new in town and hoping to meet people its the best place to strike a conversation with a stranger. The staff is also quite friendly and they have the best waiter in the country BASHIRU DEEN (i swear he's the best...any u can also catch Bashiru at Indochine , he works there too). I enjoy the guacamole here and they're always open to suggestions and u can basically have anything made anyway you like it if its in their kitchen. (owned by a SL returnee)

5. Paddy's: If you must eat anytime between 1pm and 4am any day of the week and u want Satisfaction Guaranteed...look no further than the grilled barracuda and fried rice or the grilled chicken and fried rice with the hot pepper on the side. It always taste the same and it is da bomb!! A quick tip (keep your reciept from paddy's) their number is on it and u can call ahead so u dont have to wait when u get there. The paddy's fried rice is CRACK....try it once and u're hooked...seriously. Also at paddy's the ever mysterious roastbeef at night....also CRACK...but not for the weak at stomach.....only for true gangsters like myself

6. SOLAR HOTEL RESTAURANT: When you have dinner outside at solar hotel u know that u've finally arrived. The locally made chairs and tables are set up around a pool and the sounds of the night and the stars in the sky make this the most romantic place to have a meal at night. The food though in very small portions is really well seasoned and u will want to lick your plate. Possibly one of the most expensive places to eat in town but once again worth every last cent. Anyway go ahead and lick your plate....no one's watching. This is my vote for the best kept secret (Better than all else for private dinner for a large or small group of 2)

7. BLISS PATISSERIE: You need a good English Breakfast with all its parts?? Go to bliss. You want a birthday cake or pastry?? Go to Bliss. You want warm chocolate croissant aka pain au chocolat go to Bliss. They open early (closed on mondays) if u need breakfast its the place to go

8. ATLANTIC: The award for best tapas has to go to Atlantic. Also they should also get the award for always seeking out creative activities and events to bring people to the spot and keep them entertained. Its a great place to chill out in a group...They've had everything from Barbecue Buffet on Sundays, to live musical performance and a Halloween party for charity. Toofic (or T) if you prefer is really warm and outgoing and he's doing a good job managing the place as well.

9. Roys: I am not a big fan of this place but if you wanna smoke shisha its a good place to do it. And their chicken wings are good. Just dont like the moot moot flyin by and biting me in weird places...like on my finger

10. Karma: The karma burger is possibly the burger with the most flavor i've had since i've been here. Also on this list because its really simple and classy on the inside. The owner Tanya is a fabulous hostess but most importantly they have brownies and american pancakes. Need i say more??

11. COUNTRY LODGE & HOTEL BARMOI: Two hotels with amazing views and breakfast buffets. I would say country lodge for sunday breakfast and brunch and Barmoi for saturday breakfast. Which ever you choose....u wont regret it. Country lodge also has descent apple pie...ask them to warm it and add some vanilla ice cream

12. KANKANKAN @ brookfields across from NP: Everyday starting at 5pm till they run out of beef. HMMMMM HMMMMM GOOD

13. VEEGEES Pepper chicken the last right hand turn before u take congo cross bridge heading to town: hot, spicy and to die for

14. LAC’S VILLA: the food at lac’s villa is pretty good but if you want a quiet place to have lunch, that’s green and clean…this is the place to go….owned by a sierra Leonean….Lac’s villa is also on my list for best kept secret. The service is also pretty good…ask for Mr. Daniel one of the waiters…he’s cool. Go to lac’s on Fridays for their African buffet

Honorable mention: Posseh's Bardorie (been there 3x cause there is so mcuh hype but i've been disappoitn each time....but since everyone always says nice things i think maybe its not me. they're african breakfast is also a killer......but this place is pricey...but i like it cause its owned by a Sierra Leonean. Cafe de la Rose: simply for old time's sake. Balmaya....i like to get the chicken sandwich its fast and fresh but i find balmaya's food mostly to be bland but i think thats another word for healthy??Indochine....food sometimes very good...food other times very bland but always clean and crisp and well decorated in east asian motif.

ON MY DONT EAT HERE LIST: CHEZNOUS...hang out here by all means but their food flip flops in taste and they dont have a descent toilet. SPORTSBAR....very small portions...not especially good....overpriced and cause they have a sign that says they reserve the right to throw anyone out....its a good place to drink and watch a game and not see any locals and anywhere with a nasty bathroom. DELICIOUS on siaka stevens street..and finally I regret to put CHILL & GRILL, a new sl owned restaurant on my don’t eat here list as well. The place is clean and decent but its supposed to serve grilled food. I went there with my friend she ordered grilled fish and I ordered grilled chicken. When the food came out….it wasn’t grilled it was steamed. We asked her why this was so and she finally confessed that “way wi kin grill am sontem in kin bon”. I hear they have good groundnut soup though

INTERNET
Please don’t come to SL looking for T1 and DSL speeds on internet. If you want the internet look for reliability cause any company stressing speed is just FLAT as LYING.

Internet for Home Users
ZAIN: I use zain mobile gprs because it doesn’t need power. I actually think its amazing and simple and I’ve recommended to others. Also its available in the provinces….though the speeds may not be to die for….when you’re in the GPRS EDGE zones in the western area…the signal is strong and it works…even for downloading music

COMIUM: I’ve used the comium internet at other people’s houses and I guess its okay. But I cant recommend

MOBILE PHONE COMPANY
If you end up living here you may need two phones but chances are you’ll only need one.

Comium: most people I know have comium. So most people I know end up getting comium so they can talk to the other people they know. Comium sucks for international calls cause alot of times people tell me they’ve been trying to call me but the calls dont come through. Its gotten better but still needs alot of improvement. They also have frequent dropped calls even when I’ve not run out of credit. I use comium and I think their rates for in network calls are pretty reasonable

Zain: Most people I know who I would consider wealthy in Freetown have Zain (formerly celtel). They have the widest network in the country and they also offer roaming. Perception of Zain is that the tariffs are higher than the other networks but i don’t necessary have proof. Zain also has voicemail and I think its best if you receive international calls and intend to travel up country. I have a zain number as well. You can take your cell phone and have them activate the mobile GPRS internet on it

Tigo: is supposed to be good for making international calls. They’re supposed to have good rates for that and you can also take your phone to them and they’ll configure it for their GPRS mobile internet

Africell: have a lot of customers in Freetown who I would put in the low income bracket, like traders, carpenters, school kids etc. Their rates are supposed to be very reasonable

MUSIC & DANCE
1.Paddys: i have a friend who hates paddys and swears that it is the worst place ever...she wont even get out of the car to enter paddys without being begged and cajoled. For all the kolonkos in the world i believe that paddys is a microcosm of salone. You could see anyone at paddys. All things being equal they have better music than ol skool and lagoonda put together. You can find a corner and sit and just enjoy the sights or actually venture to the dance floor...only thing is the body odors on the dance floor on a crowded night are not for the weak at heart. So when it comes to music and dancing...on the west side, paddys is still the #1 spot. If u wanna experience it on the light side...come on a thursday or sunday...rather than a friday or saturday. The toilet is better than it was but like most toilets in salone running water is an issue sometimes

2.The Lounge @ Ol Skool: The music here is 10X better than the music at the night club. And its more chill and u can dance if u want although there isnt a stage. One of the best parties i went to this year was at the Lounge the DJ was off the hook. They dont have a dj on a regular night but the crowd always tends to be a bit older and mature than those who make it to the club upstairs. The toilet f**k** sucks at this place. They made it a bit better but they never have running water and on a busy night it gets dirty quick

Ol Skool Club: The last time i had a good time at this night club was maybe 6months ago. We had to stop going to the club cause the music is like 3years old and the resident dj plays the exact same songs every friday night which is the only night i ever go to the club. Anyway Sierra Leone is definitely in need of a proper night club as Ol skool has dropped considerably and its a waste of time to drive up there to dance on a friday. I go sporadically now. nasty toilets as well

Soukous Band @ China House in Brookfields: I havent been fortunate enough to make it out to china house on fridays but i hear they have a rather good live african music band on friday nights...though some posh people have complained that the crowd is very very local. Anyway whatever your taste, its good to know u can hear and dance to live music somewhere in this city

Tribes: Reggae and Roast beef all night every night. If you've ever driven on aberdeen road u've more likely than not heard morgan heritage, lucky dube, or buju banton boom blasting as u drove by Tribes. I've been to tribes maybe 2x and its not my cup of tea to hang out at but they keep the roots reggae flavor going and i can appreciate that. You can also stop by tribes to watch your champions and premier league games. Its good for the fellas but not sure a group of ladies will enjoy hangin out at tribes

NP @ Aberdeen Road: Like tribes NP is not place u'd catch me hanging out cause its not my seen but alot of fellas hang out at NP....like a happy hour after work spot...a place to watch football games...and listen to popular music. Its good for the fellas but not sure its lady friendly

Lagoonda: No one i know goes to lagoonda. The music is too 80s. Or maybe its that the crowd is very very lebanese. But some have said that its the only real night club in salone. I dont think so but to each her own.

College Club Parties: for those of you who were fortunate or unfortunate to go to Fouray Bay College or any other college in salone, there is always a college club throwing a party for you to attend. I've never been to any college event but i expect its a great way to reunite with old friends and meet some new clubs members and most importantly....young fresh college girls willin, able, looking for a good time or a jc to take home :-)

SUPERMARKETS
Hmmmm....they are all pretty much the same...over priced, stocked with items from Sri Lanka, or Lebanon...brands u may not recognize or brands u recognize with a different taste cause it not made in the same place as what u usually get.

Monoprix, Atsons, St, Marys, Freetown all pretty much the same to me

Essentials is definitely definitely over priced, i dont ever even think of going there.

Payless has a smaller stock but its a bit more reasonable

Select Supermarket has a lot of French products

Choithrams and Sam King and other supermarkets in town tend to have more competitive prices.

My take on the supermarket is simple if u absolutely gotta have it then bring it with you, if not u get fo go buy am na super market na fo bia ya.....na so

SECOND HAND....OR JUNKS....BUTU BUTIK
Whether you're coming on holidays or coming for a while do not completely knock the junks. Ok so dont buy your panties and other unmentionables from junks but definitely look out for shoes, belts, sunglasses, bags and other accessories. There are alot of brand name designer and good quality accessories that end up in junks. Going to junks is always a cool Saturday activity

AFRICAN FABRIC
The #1 place to look for or buy african fabric is malama thomas street. If you're new to african textiles remember that there are alot of fakes in the market as well. You can find cheap prints from London and China. But if you want good quality african fabric and u want to support the growth of the african textile industry buy African made. How do u know the fabric is african made??? Well if it is african made most fabric will have the name of the country where its made printed on the edge of the fabric itself….fabric made in Sierra Leone doesn’t have that though

FOR THE LADIES
Dont let the want want get to your head. yes you're probably very beautiful and he probably does love u after the first day but know that we like new things in salone....dont forget to use a condom...which you can buy from any supermarket. Emergency Contraception (otherwise known as plan B) is available in town at the pharmacy on Wilberforce street....but USE A CONDOM. if you know u wont be comfortable buying condoms here PLEASE PLEASE BRING IT WITH YOU.....i beg. Tampons if u use them are expensive at the supermarket so u should probably bring them with you

FOR THE GUYS
Dont let all the text messages and i love you after day one get to your head. If its sex you want...its very easy to get it free here.....dont forget to use a condom...u can get condoms from any supermarket.

STDS & HIV(AIDS)
We have those here too so please drive responsibly

MARIJUANA: I dont smoke and i think its illegal. But i hear the weed here is very good and very cheap. Can be purchased on the beach and somewhere between paddys and tribes :-) and alot of other places as well i'm sure

LIQUOUR: Some hardcore liquour lovers might be disappointed at the lack of Moet, Patrone, or grey goose at the bars. Best place to grab a drink??? Plan B or Atlantic

MEDICAL CARE
Choithrams is supposed to be the best local private hospital. But there is also Marie Stopes Clinic for Women's health issues. If you get sick everyone will say its malaria but it may not be.....do take your malaria pills (but stay away from larium it tends to have some side affects). Bring Preparation H or Immodium and any and all run belleh medecine cause it might happen to you.
If you have asthma and u need an inhaler bring them with you...whatever medical needs/pills/prescriptions etc. fill them before you come and make sure u have whatever you need. There is no guarantee that we have the meds available or that what we have is authentic. So please come prepared.

HAIR
Cant help the guys here but LADIES....HEADMASTERS on wilkinson road is managed by two guys Obai and TOS Man....it gets really busy every single day and i'm sure over christmas will be no exception. They do really good weaves and hair cuts, and permed styles. if your hair is natural like mine though, they cant really help you...unless if like me u like braids...then they have a girl there MADOLO....who is really neat.

Also for hair, there is KORNYA (been here maybe twice) and AFROMERIC(used to go there years ago but not anymore)

The best hair do though if you're unsure is if you see it on someone's head u ask them where they got it done and u make them take u to the person or yet still take a picture if u have a camera on your phone. Also when you're getting your hair done be afraid to make them take it out and do it over and make sure u monitor everything they're doing to your head cause otherwise it will come out substandard. I had to learn the hard way.

You can also gat manicure and pedicure's from Headmasters or Nehneh's (next to Houda's supermarket). If you're used to seating in a massage chair for your pedicure....it aint done like that here...but u can still get it done well. Bring your own nail polish!!

RADIO STATION: If you live in SL u MUST listen to the RADIO
FREE RADIO 95.7: If like me you're an R&B and hip hop fan and you like to hear the same stuff you'd hear on the radio in the States....and maybe UK. Then this is the station for you. Mr. B the main dj is funny and quirky and he even had his own hot ass garage single a couple months ago. Mr B is super super cool... we like him ALOT...they also play r&B and hip hop from salone and africa's finest. I heard the Asa (Ahsa) single jailer first on free radio

CAPITOL RADIO 104.9: if you like to hear british or wanna be british accents then this is the station for you. They play whats hot in the UK or what u'd hear on UK radio....and they also only hire people who sound like they're british. No african or salone sounds or songs....but hey if thats your flavor then its your station. they used to have this dj called DJ pineapple and he was really funny but he's now at Kalleone i think

RADIO UNITY 94.9: its always nice to hear SLPP on air....listen here for the sounds of the opposition

KALLEONE RADIO: every now and they play good shiiiit!! kalleone is also #1 for sports info

RADIO UNAMSIL, CTN, RADIO DEMOCRACY.....all also available but i rarely listen to them…coming soon to radio in Salone is VOA-Voice of America

TELEVISION:
Local TV: SLBS TV (govt tv) & privately owned ABC TV (they play good movies in the evenings but u need to get an antenna for your tv to be able to catch the station)

Satellite: GTV (is more stable with reception but only about a handful of channels some of which are not in english), DSTV (ku band reception very poor in bad whether but it has more channels
ArabSat (at alot of lebanese owned spots)

THE GYM
UN GYM ($20/month): but its only for UN staff and NGO staff….(it’s the best value gym, they have Air-conditioning and the trainers are friendly)

Abrasy @ Wilberforce ($35/month): no A/C and the place is fallin apart. They usually only have one or two trainers….Teddy used to be my trainer last year but I had to drop him

Country Lodge Gym ($40)/month): for this much you’re supposed to get access to their gym, and pool. Never been to this gym but I’m sure its there

Gym @ Victoria Street: I think it’s the first that opened after the war but never been there either

Gym @ Campbell Street: A lady I met recently has opened a gym on Campbell street. I need to find her card to get the name right…

CHURCH/MOSQUE/INDIAN TEMPLE
I go to my neighbourhood mosque but if u need to pray we have mosques and churches all over the place. Churches of all denomination from Winners Chapel, to Praise Sanctuary, to Mountain of Fire, Mountain of Miracles, Jesus is Lord Ministries, Evangel….and on and on and on and on….we also have the more conservation Methodist/Catholic/Anglican Churches of you’re not of the Evangelical Holy Ghost Fire persuasion

And there is an Indian temple on Wilkinson Road

People will invite to church for thanksgiving this or that but Sierra Leoeneans in generally are not fussy about religion. We are tolerant. Though people tend to be incredibly weirded out if you say you don’t believe in God altogether. We just don’t understand how someone could not believe in God.

LITTERING
Yes u will sit in taxi or poda poda or even in a private car and someone will throw something out the window. Please advise your driver who may not already be doing this to keep a plastic bag in the car for garbage if you eat in streets like me.
Put please don’t throw trash on the street, its already very filthy so don’t make it worse. You may find it difficult walking in the city to identify trash bins but still don’t throw your trash on the street. More likely than not if you’re on holiday or recently moved back people are going to look up to you so u want to be passing along the best habits…no to so?

TIME
Don’t take it for granted that people will be always late. Even though 99% of the time they will be, you should try to show up on time

RETURNEE/SL OWNED BUSINESSES
There are some who come back and say they will not patronize Lebanese owned businesses like I once did but, if you actually want to live your life to the fullest and enjoy the best this town to offer more likely than not, u will end up at a Lebanese owned establishment. Yet still there are returnee/sl owned biznesses. I think its always interesting to ask staff about the owners of the establishments I visit.

And finally after much has been said the last thing on this list……

THE STATE OF TOILETS IN SIERRA LEONE
My mother always told me that you know how clean a person is by the condition of their toilet. If the toilets in our homes and businesses are to speak to who we are in this country, one word would fully capture us……NASTY!!!!!
Whether it’s a house or a business people treat the toilets as an after thought. It rarely has running water, hand wash, tissue paper…and all the necessary ingredients for a healthy clean toilet experience. HOW CAN YOU OWN A RESTAURANT AND NOT HAVE WATER IN YOUR TOILETS????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I understand some places do not have running water but that is no excuse. Labor is very very very very cheap in sierra leone and it would cost close to nothing to hire someone whose job it was to make sure that the toilets always have water. But it is unacceptable that I should go to a restaurant and have to lift and pour a bucket of water into the bowl to flush.
If you’re planning on headin to the center of town please make sure you have previously designated toilets….an office or establishment that you know u always have access to their toilet and that’s clean with running water. If not, you run the risk of being caught out there with no protection. If you happen to be suffering from run belleh….please please stay home…for God’s sake!!!!


Disclaimer: The SwitSalone 2008 Switlist is compiled by yours truly in consultation with no one though I’ve certainly let others’ impression of things influence this list. It contains my personal views, tastes and preferences. It is neither endorsed, nor affiliated, nor promoted by any of the businesses or establishment mentioned on this list. I compiled this list in two sittings over a period of two days. Use at your own discretion but certainly come back and tell me what you think and prove me wrong if u can…or better yet maybe I missed a lot of other stuff that’s worth mentioning. If you have something to add please feel free.….its my birthday tomorrow Nov 14th, so i'm feelin real gooooddd :-)
Kisssesss and Huggzz


SEE YOU AROUND MY FREETOWN………..dont forget your mosquito repellent, rechargeable batteries & flash light

So what do you think of the beach bars situation?

I’m being asked a lot about this recently.. I’ve also been planning to write about it for a while now. Frankly, I feel it was a bit of a cock up. I’m certain the ministry also feels like this now… No one seems to find real justifiable cause to put so many people out of business in a couple of days.. just before the peak season. Apparently, some of the structures were ‘not up to it’ or something like that… See, if there was communication between The Ministry and various stakeholders in the Tourism Industry – they would have realised that tourists and foreign workers actually liked the raggedy beach bars… they were.. ‘charming’. The way I see it is like.. ok.. well some of the beach bars may not have met standards, especially hygiene/health and safety.. but to tell me you have to knock all the shops in my street down because a couple of business along the route are not pulling their weight, is frankly ridiculous. Establishments like Bunker Bar are widely understood to have followed the right procedures and were of acceptable standard. Should they really have turned up with demolition teams of soldiers and armed police in riot gear wielding axes and machetes?

I think what puzzles a lot of people is how there seems to be no plan put in place to replace these beach bars. I understand that there are plans to plant trees and install street lights. I mean that’s all well and good.. but are the funds there? Are they even connected to the National power grid?

I’d like to see that side of the road given a proper pavement for joggers, cyclists and other pedestrians – with good access for those across the road who wish to cross over to the beach. Maybe in doing this the erosion problem can also be tackled. Oh yeah, zebra crossings and other safety precautions for pedestrians would probably come in handy right about now.

My fear is that this was some sort of desperate attempt by the Tourism Ministry to prove that they were doing some work. Well, destroying is easy and I can’t say I’m impressed. Same way they may end up giving planning permission to certain developments that may not fit into the plan for responsible tourism development. Remember, the road to hell is often paved with good intentions.

For now, I’m afraid folks will have to find other places along to the beach to hang out. A popular choice is Beach Apple which gets properly crowded on Sundays. Plan B, Chez Nous are other options. You could go for a stroll on the beach or just sit in one of the car parks at night and enjoy the reflection of the moon off the water…the beach bars will be missed but there are still lots of reasons to spend your evenings along Lumley Beach.

For more information on this please see this Reuters article:

Beach bars demolished in tourism revamp

Mboka – An opportunity for a second look at The Gambia

Anyone traveling within West Africa can probably tell you how difficult it can turn out to be. Truth is, I was dreading this journey.. and I could have so easily not made it. I forgot my passport at home but luckily enough for me, I realized this with enough time in hand. Passport with me, we set out to get the 11am ferry for a 5pm flight. Meaning I had to leave the house at 9am. The interesting thing about the ferry journey is once you actually get moving it’s quite a nice scenic journey to and from lungi. This journey was pretty uneventful, save the guy trying to sell his music and thought the best way to get people to buy was to play it as loud as possible in the VIP section. We tried to get him to turn it down but he wasn’t best pleased. I did eventually buy a couple of CDs off him though and we parted on good terms.

Seeing as we had enough time at the airport I decided to accompany the General Manager of the Tourist Board to check out a new resort being built in a village called Ureka by Sammy Williams a ‘returnee’ from France.

I’m quite excited by the project and intend to write an article on it and Sammy at some point in the near future.

Lungi Airport is really not as bad as it used to be, a lot of folks still talk about being harassed when they arrive but personally I hardly get this.

From what I’d heard taking Bellview is always an experience. My friend used it to go to Nigeria the week before and they eventually left at 3am for an 8pm flight. In our case the flight did arrive on time  – but someone had mentioned that you had to get on the plane asap as there was no seat allocation. You grab a seat where you can find one. I thought, that’s aight – no problem there. Of course, playing it cool was probably not the best thing to do. As soon as I boarded my fear was that I wasn’t going to get a seat. I quickly evaluated the options available to me. I was either going to stand through out, seat on someone’s lap, left off the flight  or be upgraded to business class. No prizes for which I was hoping to happen. Well, I was eventually given the security personnel’s seat – right next to the toilet. The less said about this the better.. the flight was really smooth though and I even managed a nap which hardly happens on flights.

My entry into the Gambia this time round is a lot more dignified than the last time I was here. Last time, I arrived on a Thursday night, by boat and spent the final night overlooking the coastline as we were not permitted to disembark for security reasons. That time in 1997, I was seeking refuge. Nearly 11 years later, my entrance couldn’t be more different. We had a fellow with a sign up waiting for us and were sped through the formalities.

In fact, so many things about The Gambia seem different. Even those of our delegation who were last here about 3 years ago said things looked different.

We are here for the 1st West Africa Tourism Market – Mboka – the region’s answer to others such as the WTM in London. The whole idea is to bring together local operators (with sustainable tourism projects) and Western operators interested in accessing them. Sierra Leone’s participants were Tacugama Sanctuary, Banana Island Guest House, KTI Tours, Fact finding Tours, Kambia Africana Village, Tiwai Island, Visit Sierra Leone, The Tourist Board and a representative from The Ministry.

When the chance came up to come to this conference, I couldn’t really pass on it for many reasons. Mainly, much talk has gone on about how Sierra Leone has so much more potential for tourism than the Gambia. Apparently, our beaches are nicer. It was also to see how they (The Gambia) are going about running their industry, the standards of those in the industry, the service etc.

Well, the hotel I’m staying (Sunset Beach Hotel) is right on the beach front. If the beach is the best this country can offer, I can categorically state that even Lumley beach (with some clean up) will knock it off the radar… and you know Lumley beach is not one of our top five. This beach is just ok.

 

The land is flat and doesn’t have the same character as Sierra Leone does and I believe we win in the eco-tourism potential as well. For nightlife, I think we definitely have the edge even though we could do with a bit more choice. The night before returning I went to a free concert which included Sierra Leonean artists Emmerson, DJ Lulu and Lady F. It was aight.. we then proceeded to Senegambia (all in the name of research) where we chilled at a restaurant with live music entertainment(another thing in short supply here).

Anyway, in terms of the raw product, we may have more to offer. However, their service industry is not to be compared with ours. The staff are so professional and service oriented. Their tourism industry is ‘well-oiled’. It’s really a joy to watch. One of the first thing I noticed about this hotels is accessibility for disabled people, something I doubt a single hotel in Sierra Leone complies with. In short, their standards – service, accessibility, hygiene and infrastructure is on an different level. They have computer systems set up (I’m a geek I know) and staff are adequately trained in using them. The only two hotels I know use computerised systems for booking and room allocation are the Country Lodge and Hotel Cabenda – these are the ones I’m aware of. I’m not saying that The Gambians have what we should aspire to or that their industry is perfect because it isn’t, but they’re trying.

Nevertheless, I still believe that in 5-7 years we can be competing with others in the region as West Africa is still underdeveloped in terms of taking advantage of the tourism opportunities. That is, if the government pays more than lip service to the tourism industry.

The event Mboka itself was good and hopefully if it there are others in the future it can only go from strength to strength.What surprised me a bit and frankly is starting to irritate me know is how, is the lingering perception of Sierra Leone being war-torn and ‘un-visitworthy’. Even more irritating was because I thought one or two of the TOs there did not seem to have much of an open minded approach which is so often needed in Africa. Well, that’s the vibe I got. Still, it was encouraging and enlightening to learn about what is happening at other parts in the regions.

As for The Gambia, well they haven’t seen a growth in tourist numbers in the last couple of years and are looking at ways to remodel the industry, offers new things and re-energise their industry which has been so important to the growth of their economy.

..and for Sierra Leone? Well, our challenges (mental and physical) will continue to inhibit our growth if we don’t develop strategies to counter this now. Some work is being done but I fear it is uncoordinated, which might result in a mish mash of tourism projects, waste of resources and potential short life span of our tourism industry when we eventually have one.