24 February 2007

Nataša's Sierra Leone Adventure - Part 10 - No Girlfriend Business


I woke up the next day and walked around. I met with Seinya, and her lovely one year old daughter Fati, who fluttered around in a lace dress. Seinya was not fluttery at all, I could see something was worrying her, making her spirit heavy. I was wondering what it was, but it did not seem appropriate to ask someone you knew so little. She introduced me to her friend Simpson, another local NGO worker, an electrician who worked for Caritas. He was a cool guy, relaxed, and not pushy, and I felt comfortable in his company. I wandered around the town. There were so many disabled people, people with limbs missing, on crutches, sitting around, not doing much. Most of them too young to be invalids. The massacre and devastation of the war seemed still so fresh, the consequences so vivid.

I had seen this before, I thought, when I was in Bosnia, the first time two years after the war there, and then several times later. And Bosnia I knew from before so I could compare. The first time I drove through Sarajevo from the airport, I started to cry uncontrollably. Just at the look of the blackened skyscraper skeletons, big holes in the walls of buildings, numerous small holes done by snipers in the still lived in buildings, the burnt down National Library. Deserted villages. Even worse in the charming Mostar with the collapsed medieval bridge. The atmosphere was just dead. I was depressed. Then I met people, friends, colleagues. We went out, and they spoke of horror, fears, hunger, pain. And then the survival strategies. About those they spoke with so much black humour, and on such a positive note – on several occasions - in the end we all laughed to how they all fought to find a small chunk of a tinned sardine in a big pot of boiled rice, the food that landed out of the sky as UN help to civilians, to save them from starvation. The spirit can basically survive anything.

You could see that in Zimmi as well. The life definitely went on. People cooked, they farmed, they went to work, and had children, they travelled, played football, and joked. Their lives continued, however scarred they had been by the deaths and losses of the beloved ones.

I went to the market, which was lively, and bought a pineapple, I had some more tea. Then I went to the school next door to my compound, and wanted to take some photos of the children. All of a sudden they swarmed around me, several classes of children of various ages. They were lively, some a bit wild. I had to use my teacher authority to make some order, they all wanted to stand right in front of me to be in the picture, all wanting to be in the front row. I spoke louder, in a more determined voice, showing them with my hands where I wanted each of them to stand, the smaller ones in front, the bigger at the back. If I moved back, they followed me like a big hive, giggling and chattering. A teacher came, helped me control the crowd, and posed for the picture as well. Wonderful pictures of children with so many different expressions, brown faces, big eyes, all in blue uniforms. Great colours!

I walked on, and on the other side of the street further on watched a football game played by local boys, all in copies of shirts of the famous football players such as Zidane, Ronaldo, Beckham, Essien. They were all aspiring to become good football players one day, maybe even make a career which would take them abroad. Football a ticket out of poverty, the chance for a better life, a wish of many African boys. I am sure there were a lot of young talents among them to be discovered.

In the afternoon Simpson came over, and accompanied me on my walk out of the village, and down the road, that led further on to Liberia. Everyone asked me, if I was on my way to Monrovia. I wished I was, we were not far away from the border crossing. It suddenly seemed so easy, accesible, a normal way to continue the journey. But I had a single entry visa, and a return ticket from Freetown. We got to the first police checkpoint outside the village, and I sat down with the policemen to have a talk with them. There were five or six of them, just sitting there, not having to do much. The local people were walking back and forth from their fields on the other side of the checkpoint, carrying bundles, vegetables, firewood, and tools. There was very little traffic. Actually none while I was around. I told them a little about Slovenia and myself. They listened with interest, they wouldn't mind talking longer. But at this point I was with Simpson, and followed his guidance. I knew he thought it was enough. So we said farewell.

***
I took pictures everywhere. The countryside was beautiful, it was deep green, and fertile. A lot of people, adults, and children came back from the fields with their hoes or sometimes vegetables, as the day was approaching its end. In Zimmi it rained more often than in Freetown, so I spent some time just in the house, and read a thick book I brought with me. When the rains came, that was a wonderful excuse to idle in bed. I loved the sound of it heavily pattering on the roof, the feeling that the time had stopped. Just being by myself, and taking a nap in the middle of the day. I really was on holidays, and left everything behind, work as well. What luxury!

Simpson came by again after work, and we went out in the afternoon. While watching another football match by adolescent boys on the local playground, someone came to introduce himself. He was a medical nurse for Caritas, his name was Kanei. I could see Kanei had a strategy of approaching. He did not encounter me by accident. He was following me around for a while, down the couple of streets Zimmi provided, waiting for the right moment to meet with me. The football field seemed to him to be the most appropriate. He was really trying hard to be my friend, much too hard. Saw in me an opportunity of a better life. The more I casually tried to explain him, I was not the right person to help him come to Europe, just because I was from Europe myself, the more persistent he was. Simpson smiled to himself, I could see he found it amusing. I invited both guys for a drink, but declined to accompany the medical nurse around, to visit his patients, and see, how he gave penicilin jabs. My father was a doctor, and I saw him work many times, I apologised. I wished him good luck, also in finding someone for a life companion. That's how desperate men sometimes get, not having the right opportunities, I thought. I had to hide sometimes from him in the next days, as he was a persistent felow, looking for me all around. We laughed about that with Simpson. He was one clever guy, and knew how to stay near me, no propositions, just offering his presence. And he also spoke openly of his family, his wife and children.

23 February 2007

Nataša's Sierra Leone Adventure - Part 9 - Stay Away from Big Fish!


The guest house in Zimmi looked nice and recently built, just a couple of yards off the road. But Seinya the nurse guided me to another, the international guest house she said. I tried to understand what was wrong with this one, at least trying to check it out. She said it was for the local people, and it was not safe for me, with no guards. It didn't convince me really, but she seemed quite confident of what she was doing and saying. There is a better place for foreigners, trust me, she said. I like to forget being a foreigner as much as I can, when I travel, as difficult as it can sometimes be, being white, coming from Europe being seen as someone who has money, a lot of opportunities in life they don't have, everything better, they think. But it's not always all better what we have in our western lives, I sometimes try to explain, although it's hard to deny, how much more privileged we are in many ways. So they figured, I was worthy of something better than the local guesthouse. Or did they think, I also had more money to pay for the luxury. I was to find that out.

Seinya asked a man, who was standing nearby, a cousin of hers, she later explained, to take my bag and carry it for me. He put it on his shoulder, and then on his head. The road was too rough, and muddy from the recent rain to have the bag pulled on its wheels. I obediently followed my new companions, chatting about my day of travelling from Bo. I like to trust my instinct, and it told me everything is fine.

We walked two hundred yards or so down the road, past a football field and a school, to the edge of town. Finally we stopped in front of a high wall. It turned out they took me to the UNHCR compound, inside a high barbed wall, with a security guard and everything that went with it. The caretaker was not around, so they went to fetch him. We sat down on the plastic chairs in the middle of the courtyard, someone brought for the two of us, and waited. I played a little with a puppy, and talked to Seinya about her work. She helped with the repatriation missions of Liberian refugees, which were quite regular now as the situation in Liberia stabilised. One of the camps where the refugees made an overnight stop on their way back back home was in Zimmi. After a while Seinya said, I can see we will be friends. It was nice to be accepted in such a straighforward manner in new places, by people who were strangers just moments ago. It happened to me on several occasions, and it is something I would wish to experience once again.

When the caretaker Mohamed arrived, I was accomodated in one of the three houses at the compound. One was for the staff, another one was temporarily occupied by a middle-aged mineral trader who was doing some business, probably in connection with the nearby diamond mines. I was in the one belonging to the UNHCR high comissioner in this area who was originally from Mali, but had been away due to a serious illness. Noone knew, when he was coming back or what exactly was wrong with him. They said he got some disease in the bush, not malaria, and was gone for more than a month, hospitalised in Dakar. Everyone hoped for him to get well.

Unexpectedly I got a house of my own. A room, with a big bed, and a private bathroom, a kitchen and a big living room with a really big TV, a satellite radio I didn't use, generator which was running from seven to eleven at night. All a great luxury in these parts. I could stay here for long, I thought. I could easily accustom myself to the role of a UN high commisioner, especially after starting to read some of the books and leaflets lying around. It all cost me only 20.000 leones for a night, which was also very reasonable. Mohamed the caretaker told me I could ask him if I needed anything, he was at my service. He could arrange for local women to bring me meals, if I was hungry, or help me plan my trips to the villages. I was starving that evening, and it was late. We went to town, where they reopened a small restaurant just for me. It was owned by a Liberian refugee family, a beautiful lady with her daughter and the daughter's little baby girl who was just two weeks old, who cooked for me in the dark of the back kitchen, while they sat me at the table in the front room which resembled a home setting. Someone outside was playing music on his battery run radio and selling tea out of a big thermos bottle, everything was laid back, the dusk started closing the day, and I could see mosquitoes coming out through the door frame. They made me fried eggs, bread, and chips and some hot tea with sweet condensed milk. I thought it was one of my best meals, everything so deliciously tasty, I hadn't been eating much in the last few days. I felt relieved, my appetite returned, and with it my happiness. With a full belly I returned to my new dwelling.

There where five men anxiously waiting for me at my doorstep. I realised there was the FIFA football match on that evening, and all of a sudden I became one of the privileged few TV owners in Zimmi, definitely the only one at the compound. What power, what status! I unlocked the door and let all the eager spectators in. The game had just started. It was the match between Brazil and France. The security guard, the caretaker Mohamed, a mineral trader staying in the other house of the compound, who immediately made a short interview with me, and promptly told me to stay away from the big fish - whatever that meant - and a couple of other men, there we were, watching the game together, cheering and commenting. France won with one goal, it was a deserved victory. After the game I was left alone in my new residence. No big fish. The mission of the day was accomplished. Again I found myself a place to sleep, and a safe one it seemed as well. The rest was to come.