25 September 2006

Nataša's Sierra Leone Adventure - Part 1 - Tickets and Visas

My life at home has to be planned all the time, without my planner with the meeting dates, deadline dates, and what-to-do-today notes, I would be dead. When I travel, I hardly plan anything ahead. This attitude starts with the decision to go, which is usually carried out at an impulse. First I feel this urge to leave for a while, what I feel at the time, a frustrating or overworked life. I stop by my travel agent, and ask him, if there are any cheap flights to Africa. He usually doesn't come out with anything specific, so I do some quick brainstorming, and name a few countries. The ones that come to my mind first are usually connected to the books by African writers I had recently read, or which took place in Africa.

Last year when I was booking a flight, I had just finished reading Doreen Baingana's Tropical Fish, Stories out of Entebbe, a 1941 children's travel book by Max Metzeger, which would translate Monica Travels to Madagascar I found at the local second hand bookshop, and a favourite of mine, Mia Couto's The Last Flight of the Flamingo which had just come out in fresh Slovenian translation, so I asked for flights to Uganda, Madagascar and Mozambique. The travel agent offered a cheap charter to Namibia, so I ended up booking a flight for that destination, which didn't turn out cheap at all in the end, but got me immmersed in the loneliness of the sand dune desert, offered an interesting sociological insight into post-apartheid racial relationships, and made me come back home with another load of books by Namibian and South African writers.

This year I made a reservation for Mozambique, I read a great story from a new collection by Rogerio Manjate, and Sierra Leone, I read several short stories by Sierra Leonean writers, and also some poetry by Syl Cheney-Coker. Mozambique would have been easier it seemed, obtaining the visa and the flight was cheaper. But now I really wanted to come back to West Africa, and Sierra Leone seemed an interesting option.

Prospects for Sierra Leone were not too good. The time was short, I had less than a month to get the visa and arrange everything. The flight from Brussels was ridiculously expensive, around 1600 euros, taxes amounted to one third of the price. I would have to fly from Venice, which is another three hour drive to there, and it was cheaper from there than from Brussels itself. There is no Sierra Leone embassy in my country.

I first tried to find a cheaper flight, found Kevin McPhillips Travel on the internet, which offered Astraeus flights to Freetown, e-mailed and called them, and made a reservation for a much more reasonable fare than I would with SN Brussels. I still needed to find a not too expensive flight to London. I made a reservation with the Slovenian airlines, but I was put just on the waiting list for the flight back from London home, that flight was also half of what I was paying from London to Freetown. Someone around here, seeing how desperate I was to go, then offered to give me his free mileage points for my flight, which in the end made me fly business class to London and drink wine from a real glass.

I still had to obtain the visa. Now this took a research, that reminds me on the scientific approach to work I sometimes have to embark. I first tried to find the embassies and consulates in Europe. I hoped I could get the visa at the Vienna consulate, as I could drive there, but calling them found out, that since 1 January 2006 Sierra Leonean visas have been issued only by embassies. He gave me the web site of the Bonn embassy. When I read, what I needed for the visa, I almost gave up: an invitation letter, stating my financial status, a return ticket, my yellow fever jab just expired a week ago, etc. It also meant that I would have to send my passport DHL, and wire the money for the fee. There is no agency in Slovenia, where they would do that for me, or give me any guarantee my documents and money should arrive safely. I called them, and the men said my letter can be e-mailed, my ticket can be just a reservation, but I wasn't sure, as that was not what wrote in the requirements. Then I checked the site of London High Commission, they also require a letter of invitation, and if I sent my passport DHL it would take around three weeks to get it back (too long for me). I would have to ask my London friend to help me out, and you know how busy people are, and don't have time to run around doing big favours for friends. Nevertheless I called High Comission, and they told me, a booked hotel would do, instead of an invitation letter. Finally I called the Brussels embassy as well. They don't have any internet site, but the talk seemed promising. I would still need an invitation letter, but that was about it. The visa would be issued in a day, the shortest time. They could fax the visa application form. But, the fee had to be paid in person at the nearby bank, so I could not DHL my passport directly to them and wire the money. This left me with two options, find someone in Brussels who would do that for me, or fly to Brussels (not a financially good option, and I didn't have the time either). In the meantime I contacted a Sierra Leonean friend in the States, if he could help me with the invitation letter, who contacted his sister who resides in Freetown, and she was kind enough to write this letter and e-mail it to me, I am greatful to both. I started looking for someone I know, who lives in Brussels. There are quite a lot of people from my country working for the European Union, translators, administration workers, politicians, and some I even know, but they are all very busy, the embassy office hours are in the morning, and you also have to run to the bank. Finally someone reminded me of our old class-mate from high school who left his career to accompany his wife, which meant he was not employed there, and might have time to do a such a favour. I got his e-mail, he still remembered me well, and was really willing to do it as well, “no problem, that's what I am here for” attitude. There are still good people on this world!
Things seemed to be getting in place. It was highly possible I was going. And my wish for the gold fish? Let's abolish the institution of visas.

12 September 2006

Blood Diamonds Movie: The Industry, Sierra Leone and The Boycott

I must admit that when I first heard of this Blood Diamonds movie, I thought it was a good idea… but I was thinking about the potential positive elements to the movie. I guess I dreamt of a world famous actor like Di Caprio coming to Sierra Leone, falling in love with the country and building a home somewhere around Koidu… or of local actors such as Freetong Players been given a chance to break into the US market!! Other forumites however, did take a more cautious approach to the news, reminding us that even an uplifting story such as Amistad did not yield any positive or lasting benefits for Sierra Leone. Anyway it turns out this Blood Diamond movie was filmed in Mozambique, South Africa and some scenes shots in the UK. Di Caprio even took some time out to visit the SOS Childrens Village in Mozambique.

The Industry’s challenge

We have been tracking this in the Visit Sierra Leone forum since June 2005 when the making of the movie was first announced and things have come a long way since then. There is some talk that this film threatens to rock the diamond industry, shake the way we look BLING! Even the hip hop artists are getting into the act. Kanye West’s rap tune “Diamonds from Sierra Leone” broke the issue to a new generation of “ICE” consumers who had little knowledge about “Conflict Diamonds” as they are also called. This was followed swiftly by news that Kanye West, Jadakiss, Paul Wall and Tony Calderon would be heading to Sierra Leone

. Kanye and Jadakiss did not make it in the end but Raekwon, Paul Wall and Tego Calderon where there to film their bits for the documentary Bling: A Planet Rock (2006). All of this and we have not mentioned that Sierra Leone’s 10 year war was most popular for diamonds and severed limbs and for most, a direct relationship between the two. There were various highlighting the evil that accompanied the sale of blood diamonds. See: Amnesty Magazine ; Blood Diamonds are for Never

The industry has cleaned up its act a lot since those days but as Sierra Leone knows too well… years of negative publicity cannot just be wiped out overnight – even if you’re De Beers. So are they running scared? There is talk that they have “recruited” the services of none other than Nelson Mandela to speak “defend” De Beers. The ol’ man came under some criticism for that but in truth, he is speaking out for the diamond industry and has always been against a boycott of diamonds, something he feels will be detrimental to economies of country who depend on diamonds as a major source of revenue such as South Africa and of course Sierra Leone. I have to say, based on that reasoning the wise ol man is right, again. As far as I know he wasn’t “hired” by De Beers as he is not being paid for his role. The industry, just like Sierra Leone, is vulnerable to the negative effects of this film and are bracing themselves for a backlash – with the film’s PR in high speed it seems the only people to benefit from this movie is Hollywood.


See also


Nelson Mandela to Defend De Beers; Nelson Mandela to speak out for diamond industry

Jewelers sweat a 'Blood Diamond' holiday - CNN

Jewelers nervous about 'Blood Diamond' film - MSBNC

Blood Diamond; Movie Concerns Industry - DiamondRegistry.com

Diamond film 'could hurt Africa'- BBC

And for the countries trying to get back on track?

All of this brings me back to the movie – it is clear that the only real motive here is to cash in from the conflict and the issue of blood diamonds. As other forumites pointed out, maybe Hollywood are only in it for the money. It is not the first time this has been done with conflicts in African countries, Hotel Rwanda, Tears of the Sun, Black Hawk Down etc. However, even if it was a moral crusade, this film has the potential to cause even more harm to the people who have been affected by “Blood Diamonds”. Most are now trying to get there lives back together and working in legit diamond trade – what would happen to them if the industry was to go still?

Anyone who’s spent time on the forum will know that I’m not a big fan of diamonds but Sierra Leone, still trying to get back on track is heavily dependent on Diamonds as a major source of revenue and I don’t even want to think of the consequences of a dormant diamond industry! Besides the loss in revenue another big casualty of the war in Sierra Leone was its image. I believe that if we are to attract credible more foreign investors and tap into the country’s tourism potential then our negative image in the West must be tackled. Investors are driven by confidence and there have been some strides in this direction and I think this movie will set us back a few years. That would be a real shame. I hope there is a bit at the end which talks about life in some of these regions today. Sierra Leone, Liberia and Angola all have peace and are working hard to rejuvenate their economies and they deserve a chance to do so!

Think that’s about all I have to say on this issue for now, save to say that I do not think it is diamonds that should be boycotted, but rather Blood Diamond - the movie.

10 September 2006

The simple things in life

Imagine waking up in the morning to the sounds of birds tweeting away in the trees... the wind gently caressing your face and then you open your eyes and see this...



These are the simple things in life, these are the things i miss about Sierra Leone.

4 September 2006

Paddys Bar and Entertainment Complex in Freetown

Paddys Bar in Freetown has become some sort of a phenomenon over the past few years. Founded by Paddy Warren an Irishman who sadly passed away in 2005, Paddys has become the main focal point for entertainment in Freetown. You have to experience it at least once. Paddys was notorious for remaining open during the civil war and was popular with UN troops, expatriates, Nigerian soldiers, diamond dealers, night workers and of course local folk just wanting to enjoy a night out. Well, the troops are gone and so too some of the expats and Paddys is still there. Paddys works… and it’s a really simple formula too… wide open space overlooking the sea, a roof, cheap drinks, roast beef, great music… ah the music!See also: So what is it about Paddys?




and another...